2009 Boat Projects

10/25/09 Looks like a year has passed since my last entry. WOW. Lots to catch up on. I did not have the time to spend on the boat that I would have liked but I got a few things done.

Rebuilt Porthole Trim

All the rubber trim around the perimeter of each window was in bad shape so I removed it and then painstakingly applied epoxy and fiberglass to the perimeter of each window and did much sanding to get a smooth surface around the perimeter of each window. On the Rasmus's cabin sides, you have an exterior fiberglass layer, next a plywood structural member, and then the interior mahogany trim and paneling. Water can seep thru the window and straight into the plywood section. I decided to epoxy and fiberglass the entire perimeter of each window to seal and finish instead of order more rubber trim sections. Don't do it. It took forever. But I should have a moisture proof trim on each window. We will see how it holds up.

New Portholes

To replace portholes, all of the old caulk left on the boat must come off. Since I was going to paint prior to replacement, I could not leave any trace of caulk on the boat. This is easier said than done. After trying several methods, the one that worked best was to scrape the bulk of the caulk off with a single edge razor and then soak the remaining caulk with Goo Off solvent and while the caulk was wet with solvent, scrub it with a wire brush and then wipe off the caulk with a rag as it beads up. I had to repeat this process several times before all the caulk was removed.

I cut new portholes using 3/8 inch thick polycarbonate. They cut smooth with an 80 tooth finish blade. I cut the curves with a bandsaw and cleaned up the curves with a stationary belt sander.

Prepping and Painting Deck

Deck before and after painting.

I have done much prep work on the deck trying to get it painted before cold weather hits. That way I can start screwing this boat back together this winter. I have cleaned the deck using and also Interlux 202 wash. The Interlux 202 wash would melt most protective gloves I was using. I finally found a cheap pair of nitrile gloves at Home Depot that held up nicely. They were only 3 to 4 bucks a pair. I spent days patching screw holes and dings. I then tried to roll on Interlux Primecoat and quickly realized spraying was the way to go. It sprayed on nicely and was then sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. I rolled on a coat of Perfection with Interlux?s Anti-Skid Compound on all the non skid areas. I did not have to tape anything off because the Rasmus has raised non skid sections. I then rolled a second coat on the non skid. I then sprayed the entire deck with Interlux Perfection using a positive pressure respirator. It sprayed on very nice. I have cut the paint 1/1 with a Interlux's Flattening Agent. It took much of the shine out and I think is looks good and will provide an easier surface to play on.

New Bow Anchor Platform

I have built a new bow anchor platform out of teak using gorilla glue and 3/8 inch silicone bronze all threads to hold it together.

New Lewmar Hatch

Replacing Teak Toerail

I made patterns for the new teak toe rail on plywood by laying some 2 ft. by 8 ft. by 1/4 inch thick plywood sections down on the toerail and marking the shear line on the plywood. I then cut this out with a bandsaw. This gave me a pattern for my new teak toerail. I have started steam bending the teak. I have read it is next to impossible to steam bend teak but I had a piece of teak that was already bowed and I am having success steaming and bending with the natural bow already in the teak plank.

Painting the Mast

I have stripped the mast of hardware,cleaned, and have applied a coat of Perfection on it and the boom. I need to replace all the sheaves on the masthead and also the halyards. I used gravity feed spray gun for paint application. I bought the sheaves from Rig Rite. They have been slow to deliver their products and charge a huge restocking fee. Not too happy with this company so far.

New Copper Tubing on Hydraulic Steering

New Stanchion Bases and Backing Plates

I have replaced all the stanchion bases and installed backing plates on all. Rig Rite was the only company I could find on the internet that carried the triangular style stanchion base but there must be others. I used 1/4 inch thick G-10 fiberglass board on the stanchions and 1/2 inch thick G-10 backing on the cleats.

Polishing Old Hardware

I have found that the best way to polish bad looking chrome plated bronze is to simply sand with 600 grit with a finish sander and then polish up with a polishing wheel. It works just fine on flat surfaces. The bronze will tarnish, but I think tarnished bronze will look better than flaking chrome plating. The pictures above show the differnce in look after polishing.

Removing the Gell Coat

I have decided to put a new barrier coat on the bottom. I first have to remove the old gell coat. I have started this using a grinder with 36 grit sandpaper. I take the gell coat down to paper thin thickness and then sand the remaining with a less aggressive sander, like the Bosch with 60 grit. I have found I can get a very smooth finish without gouging the FRP hull.

New Tool Shelves

Anything that can make work go more effeciently is worth doing. I added two shelves onto the shed at deck level and it saved me much time climbing up and down for supplies. I also placed a plank that ran from my second floor shop straight on to the deck of my boat.

Fitting New Bow Platform and Toerail

Pictures above showing the fitting of the new bow platform and a toerail section.