Deck Hardware

New Stanchion Bases and Backing Plates

I have replaced all the stanchion bases and installed backing plates on all. Rig Rite was the only company I could find on the internet that carried the triangular style stanchion base but there must be others. I used 1/4 inch thick G-10 fiberglass board on the stanchions and 1/2 inch thick G-10 backing on the cleats. I drilled oversized holes for the bolts and filled with epoxy. I then redrilled the correct size hole for each bolt. This will keep water from finding its way into the plywood/frp sandwich.

Polishing Old Hardware

I have found that the best way to polish bad looking chrome plated bronze is to simply sand with 600 grit with a finish sander and then polish up with a polishing wheel. It works just fine on flat surfaces. The bronze will tarnish, but I think tarnished bronze will look better than flaking chrome plating. The pictures above show the differnce in look after polishing.

Mounting Lewmar SS #40 self tailing winch

Mounted coaming trim and Lewmar #40 SS winch.(above)

Mounting cockpit seat hinges and seats

New Lewmar Hatch

9/21/2010 Deck Hardware Installation I have started installing some more deck hardware. I am using buytl tape and it is easy to work and clean up. Just cut off a piece of tape and stick it to the bottom of the hardware and bolt it down. Then clean up the squeeze out with a plastic puddy knife and your done. Pics below:

Butyl tape sticks easily on the bottom of hardware.

The squeeze out is easy to clean up with a plastic putty knife.

The stearn hardware is bedded.

Deck Hardware: Mounting Windlass, Anchor platform and Installing Toerail

The first week in October I have been busy bolting this boat back together. I have installed the Lofrans Royal manual windlass just aft of teh chain locker hatch. I used a 1/2 inch thick aluminum backing plate bedded in epoxy for strength. Below is pic.

I had to fabricate a base to lay the windlass on out of g10 fiberglass to allow the hawse pipe (which is actually a water fill fitting that I can make watertight with it's own cap)to fit under the windlass at the right distance for the pipe to have a fair line of entry.

I attached the painted toerail with ss screws and 3M 5200 caulk. I do not intend to take take it off. It would be next to impossible using 5200.

I built another anchor platform that is longer than the original so I could fabricate an extra base so I could bolt the platform down a bit better than the original. I used 3/8 inch bronze allthread and a 1/2 thick g10 fiberglass backing plate bedded in thickened epoxy. Pics below.

Mounting system for the anchor platform.